Serge Lutens
ARABIE
Arabie is syrupy to an extreme, an amalgamation of stewed dried fruits with a big handful of dried herbs and spices. What a gorgeous, smoky, uber balsamic oriental. It smells a lot like spiced burnt caramel with a whisper of bitter orange peel. In the USA, I can't think of anything we eat during the Holidays that would remind me of this, so thankfully it does not remind me of Christmas desserts as many others describe, and it smells much too complex to be any kind of boring spice candle.
The closest thing to Arabie that I have smelled is Kenzo Jungle l'Elephant, but the spices in Elephant are unbalanced--downright unpleasant if not in the mood for a spice attack. For one thing there is far too much synthetic cinnamon. In Arabie, the spices are nicely balanced by the dark syrup, the smoke, and some kind of tangy fruit that I can not quite put my finger on.
What makes this perfume seem Arabian to me is not the spices, as nutmeg, clove, and cumin are used in countless cultures, including American. It's the dried figs and dates that remind me of faraway lands.
This is a stunner from Serge Lutens. I'd wear it to a hookah lounge. It is positively exotic. (Dec 2014)
Arabie is syrupy to an extreme, an amalgamation of stewed dried fruits with a big handful of dried herbs and spices. What a gorgeous, smoky, uber balsamic oriental. It smells a lot like spiced burnt caramel with a whisper of bitter orange peel. In the USA, I can't think of anything we eat during the Holidays that would remind me of this, so thankfully it does not remind me of Christmas desserts as many others describe, and it smells much too complex to be any kind of boring spice candle.
The closest thing to Arabie that I have smelled is Kenzo Jungle l'Elephant, but the spices in Elephant are unbalanced--downright unpleasant if not in the mood for a spice attack. For one thing there is far too much synthetic cinnamon. In Arabie, the spices are nicely balanced by the dark syrup, the smoke, and some kind of tangy fruit that I can not quite put my finger on.
What makes this perfume seem Arabian to me is not the spices, as nutmeg, clove, and cumin are used in countless cultures, including American. It's the dried figs and dates that remind me of faraway lands.
This is a stunner from Serge Lutens. I'd wear it to a hookah lounge. It is positively exotic. (Dec 2014)
BAS DE SOIE
This is it--my perfect hyacinth. I love hyacinths so much. They are fairly rare where I live, so when I encounter them in bloom, I absolutely have to stop and sniff. The actual flower smells green and spicy at the same time. Hyacinth perfumes can be really sharp. Piercing. Painful. Headache-inducing. But Bas de Soie is smooth and clean. Perfectly crisp, spicy, fresh and dewy but also contains a base that seems slightly soapy/musky.
As a reference point, Bas de Soie smells like a modern, simplified version of Chanel No.19 (specifically the EdT, one of my favorite Chanels ever), with it's powder/hyacinth/iris/galbanum combo--the exact combo that makes No.19 so special.
When I smell Bas de Soie, I am transported to a garden in London in the winter. The scent is like cold rain puddles building up in a flower bed.
From where I stand, this is one of those rare perfumes that has an ange-ou-demon complex. While it is clean, oddly sweet, and seems innocent enough, as it wears I start to feel it gives an aura of feminine sensuality that kind of makes one turn their head and say, "Wait a minute--I thought you were innocent?" It's subtle, but I am pretty sure this perfume has a poker face.
Perfumes such as Bas de Soie, ones that make me contemplate them deeply, are the ones I consider to be masterpieces. It was immediately full bottle worthy for me. (May 2016)
This is it--my perfect hyacinth. I love hyacinths so much. They are fairly rare where I live, so when I encounter them in bloom, I absolutely have to stop and sniff. The actual flower smells green and spicy at the same time. Hyacinth perfumes can be really sharp. Piercing. Painful. Headache-inducing. But Bas de Soie is smooth and clean. Perfectly crisp, spicy, fresh and dewy but also contains a base that seems slightly soapy/musky.
As a reference point, Bas de Soie smells like a modern, simplified version of Chanel No.19 (specifically the EdT, one of my favorite Chanels ever), with it's powder/hyacinth/iris/galbanum combo--the exact combo that makes No.19 so special.
When I smell Bas de Soie, I am transported to a garden in London in the winter. The scent is like cold rain puddles building up in a flower bed.
From where I stand, this is one of those rare perfumes that has an ange-ou-demon complex. While it is clean, oddly sweet, and seems innocent enough, as it wears I start to feel it gives an aura of feminine sensuality that kind of makes one turn their head and say, "Wait a minute--I thought you were innocent?" It's subtle, but I am pretty sure this perfume has a poker face.
Perfumes such as Bas de Soie, ones that make me contemplate them deeply, are the ones I consider to be masterpieces. It was immediately full bottle worthy for me. (May 2016)
CHERGUI
When Chergui first hits my skin it smells very floral. Soon it becomes very sweet, like honey-flavored marshmallows mixed with tobacco, amber, and something slightly vegetal. Very nice. On me this is much more of a honey perfume than anything else. At times I think I smell a waxy candle. What I like most is that it does not contain vanilla. Great perfume for fall weather and getting cozy, but definitely sweet!
(Mar 2013)
When Chergui first hits my skin it smells very floral. Soon it becomes very sweet, like honey-flavored marshmallows mixed with tobacco, amber, and something slightly vegetal. Very nice. On me this is much more of a honey perfume than anything else. At times I think I smell a waxy candle. What I like most is that it does not contain vanilla. Great perfume for fall weather and getting cozy, but definitely sweet!
(Mar 2013)
FILLE EN AIGUILLES
A hyped-up Serge Lutens. Yes the pine is strong, and sillage is great, but it's also quite sweet, which makes for a very unnatural scent. It actually smells a lot like grape juice. If you are anything like me and are hoping for a realistic, dry, woody fragrance, you might want to look elsewhere. I was very close to a blind-buy based on so many of the previous reviews, but I am thankful I got the chance to test first because it's a big no-no for me.
I was going to mention Wazamba as being in the same vein, and I see that it has already been compared to Fille en Aiguilles by several people. I agree. But Wazamba is not so sweet and fruity and smells absolutely nothing like grape juice. I like Wazamba a lot better.
A hyped-up Serge Lutens. Yes the pine is strong, and sillage is great, but it's also quite sweet, which makes for a very unnatural scent. It actually smells a lot like grape juice. If you are anything like me and are hoping for a realistic, dry, woody fragrance, you might want to look elsewhere. I was very close to a blind-buy based on so many of the previous reviews, but I am thankful I got the chance to test first because it's a big no-no for me.
I was going to mention Wazamba as being in the same vein, and I see that it has already been compared to Fille en Aiguilles by several people. I agree. But Wazamba is not so sweet and fruity and smells absolutely nothing like grape juice. I like Wazamba a lot better.
FOURREAU NOIR
I tried to find a note pyramid on Serge Lutens' website, but there was none. Fragrantica says this perfume contains tonka bean, lavender, almond, and musk. Well, if I may say so, there has never been a perfume that was more straightforward because those notes are all I smell. What you see is what you get. It's creamy, vanilla-like, with strong raw almond and just a hint of lavender. It's hard to say a lot about a perfume that is so simple. I don't see this as a masterpiece, but I certainly love it. The notes combine together beautifully, and it seems appropriate to wear just about anywhere. So the bottom line is that if these 4 notes appeal to you in combination with one another, Fourreau Noir is a safe bet.
I tried to find a note pyramid on Serge Lutens' website, but there was none. Fragrantica says this perfume contains tonka bean, lavender, almond, and musk. Well, if I may say so, there has never been a perfume that was more straightforward because those notes are all I smell. What you see is what you get. It's creamy, vanilla-like, with strong raw almond and just a hint of lavender. It's hard to say a lot about a perfume that is so simple. I don't see this as a masterpiece, but I certainly love it. The notes combine together beautifully, and it seems appropriate to wear just about anywhere. So the bottom line is that if these 4 notes appeal to you in combination with one another, Fourreau Noir is a safe bet.
IRIS SILVER MIST
I have had a decant of Iris Silver Mist in my possession for about 5 years, and I never tried it until now. I guess I was intimidated by these reviews and its exclusivity. It sounded so complex. Well I've discovered that it's actually extremely simple.
When I was in college, I would often grab a bite at a cafe that served all-natural food. They had this delicious shake made with fresh carrot juice and vanilla ice milk. Throw in some mildewy clothes and a little incense, and voila! Iris Silver Mist. My college years in a bottle. Absolutely love it.
I have had a decant of Iris Silver Mist in my possession for about 5 years, and I never tried it until now. I guess I was intimidated by these reviews and its exclusivity. It sounded so complex. Well I've discovered that it's actually extremely simple.
When I was in college, I would often grab a bite at a cafe that served all-natural food. They had this delicious shake made with fresh carrot juice and vanilla ice milk. Throw in some mildewy clothes and a little incense, and voila! Iris Silver Mist. My college years in a bottle. Absolutely love it.
LA FILLE DE BERLIN
Just as I was done sampling Serge Lutens perfumes, I stumbled upon a sample of this, which I had forgotten about. Despite my experiences with this house, which have been rather poor, I decided to give this a shot because I love rose.
First--the juice is such a gorgeous red color! The initial phase is an avalanche of velvety, silky, blood-red rose petals. They smell so real and luxurious. As nice as it was, I figured a rose soliflore was not something I was in the market for. This is not a soliflore. Very soon, I began to smell spice, woods, and a faint sweetness. The spice smells more like cinnamon than pepper.
This perfume is beautiful, and the red rose in the top notes is probably the most natural and addictive I have ever smelled. Does not become too gourmand, and it is not powdery at all.
The unfortunate part is that as the perfume evolves, it becomes rather flat. Sillage leaves much to be desired as well. I am reminded of other rose and spice perfumes I love such as Penhaligon's Bluebell and Le Labo Rose 31, both which have monsterous sillage and longevity. So while I do like this one, I will just enjoy my sample. (Aug 2014)
Just as I was done sampling Serge Lutens perfumes, I stumbled upon a sample of this, which I had forgotten about. Despite my experiences with this house, which have been rather poor, I decided to give this a shot because I love rose.
First--the juice is such a gorgeous red color! The initial phase is an avalanche of velvety, silky, blood-red rose petals. They smell so real and luxurious. As nice as it was, I figured a rose soliflore was not something I was in the market for. This is not a soliflore. Very soon, I began to smell spice, woods, and a faint sweetness. The spice smells more like cinnamon than pepper.
This perfume is beautiful, and the red rose in the top notes is probably the most natural and addictive I have ever smelled. Does not become too gourmand, and it is not powdery at all.
The unfortunate part is that as the perfume evolves, it becomes rather flat. Sillage leaves much to be desired as well. I am reminded of other rose and spice perfumes I love such as Penhaligon's Bluebell and Le Labo Rose 31, both which have monsterous sillage and longevity. So while I do like this one, I will just enjoy my sample. (Aug 2014)
LA RELIGIEUSE
I really don't think the notes listed here are accurate at all. I purchased this hoping to have a new animalic jasmine, but La Religieuse is anything but animalic, incense, or smoky. Now that I know la religieuse is a variation on an eclair, it makes more sense. It smells quite sweet, not like the whole pastry, but the smell of the dough after it has been brushed with a coat of sugar-water and baked. That sugary, sticky layer before the eclair is dipped in chocolat.
The scent of sweetened pastry dough is rather persistent, and it quickly blends with a very strong synthetic musk (great--I love animals so prefer synthetics), some kind of tangy fruit (citron?)...and then the scent of green jasmine buds, which is the best feature and not nearly strong enough. This is not jasmine in bloom. It is the jasmine bush when the flowers are just tiny white pearls, and their scent is so sheer that you must lean in very closely to smell them.
I enjoy the drydown the most, as the young jasmine blended with sugar is a new concept to me.
The verdict is that while it is a nice perfume, it is not remarkable enough. Jennifer Lopez Still is also a nice jasmine perfume, and I would say that La Religieuse is not so much better as to warrant the price. They are both musky jasmine. Sillage is very low, except within the first 10 minutes. Longevity is good at around 8-10 hours. Disappointed with my blind-buy. Quel dommage.
Edit 03/04/14: Now that I am going crazy sampling jasmine soliflores of all kinds, I appreciate the drydown of La Religieuse more as it offers the tender jasmine buds that other perfumes don't. I just wish it did not take my skin a solid 8 hours to dry down, and I really wish sillage was better. I may hold onto my bottle a little longer (was planning to sell it.)
Edit 03/07/14: I think this has become a Love instead of a Like. I have been going nuts sampling jasmine soliflores of all kinds, and other than Montale's Jasmin Full, this smells much better than almost every one of them, so I appreciate it more. It does not smell like bitter, stale soap. The jasmine is unusually sweet and true to life. This is much better than A La Nuit, which has that unpleasant bitterness. I will keep La Religieuse instead of sell it. I have been converted.
Side note, I think people have to judge it for what it is not on expectations based on the bottle color, name, or previous releases. When I let go of expectations, I grew to love it. (Feb 2015)
I really don't think the notes listed here are accurate at all. I purchased this hoping to have a new animalic jasmine, but La Religieuse is anything but animalic, incense, or smoky. Now that I know la religieuse is a variation on an eclair, it makes more sense. It smells quite sweet, not like the whole pastry, but the smell of the dough after it has been brushed with a coat of sugar-water and baked. That sugary, sticky layer before the eclair is dipped in chocolat.
The scent of sweetened pastry dough is rather persistent, and it quickly blends with a very strong synthetic musk (great--I love animals so prefer synthetics), some kind of tangy fruit (citron?)...and then the scent of green jasmine buds, which is the best feature and not nearly strong enough. This is not jasmine in bloom. It is the jasmine bush when the flowers are just tiny white pearls, and their scent is so sheer that you must lean in very closely to smell them.
I enjoy the drydown the most, as the young jasmine blended with sugar is a new concept to me.
The verdict is that while it is a nice perfume, it is not remarkable enough. Jennifer Lopez Still is also a nice jasmine perfume, and I would say that La Religieuse is not so much better as to warrant the price. They are both musky jasmine. Sillage is very low, except within the first 10 minutes. Longevity is good at around 8-10 hours. Disappointed with my blind-buy. Quel dommage.
Edit 03/04/14: Now that I am going crazy sampling jasmine soliflores of all kinds, I appreciate the drydown of La Religieuse more as it offers the tender jasmine buds that other perfumes don't. I just wish it did not take my skin a solid 8 hours to dry down, and I really wish sillage was better. I may hold onto my bottle a little longer (was planning to sell it.)
Edit 03/07/14: I think this has become a Love instead of a Like. I have been going nuts sampling jasmine soliflores of all kinds, and other than Montale's Jasmin Full, this smells much better than almost every one of them, so I appreciate it more. It does not smell like bitter, stale soap. The jasmine is unusually sweet and true to life. This is much better than A La Nuit, which has that unpleasant bitterness. I will keep La Religieuse instead of sell it. I have been converted.
Side note, I think people have to judge it for what it is not on expectations based on the bottle color, name, or previous releases. When I let go of expectations, I grew to love it. (Feb 2015)
L'ORPHELINE
More Iso-E-Super + ambroxan, yay! What a dull, artless, liquid snoozefest. A meal of bread and water is more exciting.
More Iso-E-Super + ambroxan, yay! What a dull, artless, liquid snoozefest. A meal of bread and water is more exciting.
LOUVE
Something about Louve reminds me of Galerie Lafayette in Paris, and I can't figure out why.
It has the same powdery almond thing going for it as a slough of loukhoum-type perfumes, but Louve is different. The "fruity" note smells like cherries to me. I can't smell any flowers. Out of all the perfumes I own, including various CHANELs, this is the only one that takes me right back to Paris.
When Louve dries down, it smells like honey nougat with nuts and just a bit of dried cherry. It's very gourmand.
My brother "borrowed" this from me. It smells amazing on him! I might never get it back. Guys should try this one! (Oct 2012)
Something about Louve reminds me of Galerie Lafayette in Paris, and I can't figure out why.
It has the same powdery almond thing going for it as a slough of loukhoum-type perfumes, but Louve is different. The "fruity" note smells like cherries to me. I can't smell any flowers. Out of all the perfumes I own, including various CHANELs, this is the only one that takes me right back to Paris.
When Louve dries down, it smells like honey nougat with nuts and just a bit of dried cherry. It's very gourmand.
My brother "borrowed" this from me. It smells amazing on him! I might never get it back. Guys should try this one! (Oct 2012)
MUSCS KOUBLAI KHAN
Oh wow. Let me say upfront that I love this stuff, it is absolutely beautiful. But I am not at liberty to say what this smells like in a public place like this because it is triple x-rated. I have smelled perfumes that are even more animalic than this, so this perfume does not scare me at all. But like I said, there is something in here that is very specific and too erotic to mention. I've already said too much!
I want to own this for its addictive musky floral scent, but I would have to be in a very particular mood for it. I'm not talking about a romantic mood, but a mood where I would be ok with walking around with constant reminders of what this smells like. Kind of like Fiore d'Ambra, the scent of a woman's skin. Well this is the scent of a woman's (and man's)...something else....Woah.
Can you bottle sex? Apparently you can. I might be tempted to call it raunchy, but it is too beautiful to use such a demeaning word.
Oh wow. Let me say upfront that I love this stuff, it is absolutely beautiful. But I am not at liberty to say what this smells like in a public place like this because it is triple x-rated. I have smelled perfumes that are even more animalic than this, so this perfume does not scare me at all. But like I said, there is something in here that is very specific and too erotic to mention. I've already said too much!
I want to own this for its addictive musky floral scent, but I would have to be in a very particular mood for it. I'm not talking about a romantic mood, but a mood where I would be ok with walking around with constant reminders of what this smells like. Kind of like Fiore d'Ambra, the scent of a woman's skin. Well this is the scent of a woman's (and man's)...something else....Woah.
Can you bottle sex? Apparently you can. I might be tempted to call it raunchy, but it is too beautiful to use such a demeaning word.
SANTAL MAJUSCULE
At first there is a nice, very dry sandalwood mixed with a boozy chocolate liqueur. The initial scent quickly dissipates, leaving a fragrance behind that is not so dark and intense but a bit powdery and relatively light instead. Sillage is poor for $150. The notes seem exactly correct--woods, rose, cacao. I don't find it sweet. I sampled Fille en Augilles on the same day, which was significantly syrupy sweet in comparison.
I have a terrible little habit of buying perfumes on a whim after testing only once. Why oh why didn't I buy something from L'Artisan instead? Serge Lutens perfumes frequently disappoint me in the long-run. The more I wear Santal Majuscule, the more I find it to be a weak and bland concoction. It should be the opposite--I want to fall in love. If there were a category called "inoffensive office gourmand," this would be a worthy member. (Feb 2014)
At first there is a nice, very dry sandalwood mixed with a boozy chocolate liqueur. The initial scent quickly dissipates, leaving a fragrance behind that is not so dark and intense but a bit powdery and relatively light instead. Sillage is poor for $150. The notes seem exactly correct--woods, rose, cacao. I don't find it sweet. I sampled Fille en Augilles on the same day, which was significantly syrupy sweet in comparison.
I have a terrible little habit of buying perfumes on a whim after testing only once. Why oh why didn't I buy something from L'Artisan instead? Serge Lutens perfumes frequently disappoint me in the long-run. The more I wear Santal Majuscule, the more I find it to be a weak and bland concoction. It should be the opposite--I want to fall in love. If there were a category called "inoffensive office gourmand," this would be a worthy member. (Feb 2014)
