Papillon Artisan Perfumes
©2016, Elizabeth Ready. All Rights Reserved
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ANGÉLIQUE
Angélique is such a unique take on iris that it's hard to describe. It smells like iris butter instead of just iris. It is so creamy. There is something in it that smells like the faint bit of smoke in the air when you singe a piece of paper. The perfume is slightly sweet. With time, I smell just a bit of mimosa, but if I did not see the notes I would never guess that there was any mimosa here. I don't smell much in the way of florals. I just smell buttered iris, woods, smoke, and something like caramel. Very rich and resinous. I love it! Bought a full bottle on the spot after testing in a shop. This is as marvelous as Anubis, they share something in common, but Angélique is softer, more modern. (Dec 2014) |
ANUBIS
Phenomenal! This might sound strange, but I took the day off today and headed to my favorite Indian restaurant for lunch, with my sample of Anubis in tow. I figured in an Indian restaurant, nobody would notice I dabbed perfume on. When I applied it to my skin, the gorgeous scent immediately blended into the atmosphere. It smelled like it belonged there, almost like nag champa but exponentially finer.
The listed notes throw me off. I don't know about the florals. Anubis is very well blended and has a syrupy texture. Imagine a sweet amber syrup with hints of saffron, yet surprisingly animalic too. This is right on the border of too animalic for me, it pushes the limits of what I can handle. But the other notes create such harmony that I find myself craving its note of sweaty horse hair. Sweet animalic syrup, like Arabian horse hooves dipped in ambrosia. So strange, but it's gorgeous!
The base notes are like a ceremonial incense used in Ancient Egypt. It smells faintly of ancient stones. Anubis is from another time, another world! It is an extremely sophisticated work of art, yet it is so approachable. It is not quite transcendental. I think the word is SPIRITUAL. It is grounding, carnal, soulful.
Edit: Anubis also reminds me of a Filipino sweet called pastillas. They are water-buffalo milk candy, covered with a thin layer of crunchy sugar. It is milky and sweet, but it tastes "game-y", as we say, and would not suit most Americans' palates unless they are a little more adventurous. I love the stuff, personally. Also, when I wrote my review I had no idea that the perfumer was trying to evoke Ancient Egypt, so I am amazed that I certainly picked up Ancient Egypt in this perfume. Liz Moores is a Master! (Dec 2014)
Phenomenal! This might sound strange, but I took the day off today and headed to my favorite Indian restaurant for lunch, with my sample of Anubis in tow. I figured in an Indian restaurant, nobody would notice I dabbed perfume on. When I applied it to my skin, the gorgeous scent immediately blended into the atmosphere. It smelled like it belonged there, almost like nag champa but exponentially finer.
The listed notes throw me off. I don't know about the florals. Anubis is very well blended and has a syrupy texture. Imagine a sweet amber syrup with hints of saffron, yet surprisingly animalic too. This is right on the border of too animalic for me, it pushes the limits of what I can handle. But the other notes create such harmony that I find myself craving its note of sweaty horse hair. Sweet animalic syrup, like Arabian horse hooves dipped in ambrosia. So strange, but it's gorgeous!
The base notes are like a ceremonial incense used in Ancient Egypt. It smells faintly of ancient stones. Anubis is from another time, another world! It is an extremely sophisticated work of art, yet it is so approachable. It is not quite transcendental. I think the word is SPIRITUAL. It is grounding, carnal, soulful.
Edit: Anubis also reminds me of a Filipino sweet called pastillas. They are water-buffalo milk candy, covered with a thin layer of crunchy sugar. It is milky and sweet, but it tastes "game-y", as we say, and would not suit most Americans' palates unless they are a little more adventurous. I love the stuff, personally. Also, when I wrote my review I had no idea that the perfumer was trying to evoke Ancient Egypt, so I am amazed that I certainly picked up Ancient Egypt in this perfume. Liz Moores is a Master! (Dec 2014)
SALOME
This is a stunning perfume, definitely has the modern-vintage thing going on. The hazy aura that surrounds me is that of perfume still clinging to my skin after having been with my beloved all night. It smells like dense clouds of frankincense combined with rose-scented candle wax and oodles of rich musk. Salome is warm and romantic and surprisingly wearable. While it is very animalic, it does not smell like a barnyard animal the way Muscs Koublai Khan smells. The animalic note I detect is more along the lines of leather-tinged civet. Reminds me of Absolue Pour le Soir, but I had to sell that one as it goes way too far into armpit & urine territory, while Salome never even comes close to that yet still retains an equally full animalic splendor.
Again, very animalic, so I might be tempted to call it raunchy, dingy, dirty, skanky, naughty, or nasty, but I feel that the negative vibes those words convey are not appropriate words for a perfume of this caliber of artistry and dedicated passion. Salome is the afterglow, not the act. It's the guy who calls the next day, not the guy who sleeps with someone else the next day. It's the vulnerability of soft lips brushing against supple skin for the first time. It is salubrious and sanctified, not sinful and salacious.
Salome is a masterpiece, the perfect addition to an already phenomenal line of carefully constructed, unhurried releases. I already loved Liz Moores' other perfumes, particularly Anubis, but Salome has sealed the deal for me in feeling that she is one of the absolute best noses in niche perfumery today. I hear whispers of a new release on the way, possibly a green, possibly a vanilla, and I hope it's true. I eagerly look forward to any new release from Papillon.
It took me at least six months of wearing Salome over and over again to really formulate my thoughts on it. A full bottle is probably necessary!
(Jul 2016)
TOBACCO ROSE
A lush, velvety, extremely sensual, crimson rose. I smell moist hay, sticky balsams, a civet-like animalic note, and honey-dipped rose petals. Tobacco Rose is a celebration of the night. It is a perfume I would wear if I were going to see a show at the Moulin Rouge. It makes me picture velvet curtains, elegant black dresses, and skin illuminated by candle light.
Tobacco Rose stayed on my skin for 14 hours before I went to sleep for the night. A few hours in, the hay note faded, and the perfume headed down the rose confiture road. I happen to like jammy roses. What sets this one apart from the rest is the ever-present animalic note that gives it a certain edge.
I adore the entire Papillon collection and wear every single one of them. I crave them. While Anubis, Salome, and Angelique are equally beautiful and sensual in their own ways, when I wear Tobacco Rose, I start having thoughts like, "I am a beautiful woman!" There is just something about this juice that makes me want to get my hair, makeup, and nails done and just bask in the glory of being a woman. It's so unlike me to talk like that! This velvety red scent will be perfect for the turning of the leaves and the crisp breezes. Dark rose perfection.
(Aug 2016)
